Performance art with a twist

Even at a young age, artist and burlesque performer Nikola Steer, known as Coco Framboise, realized her braided hair made her stand out from her peers. Years later, she’s celebrating that difference with a unique performance piece, Afro-Dite: HairLoom, at the AGO on January 18.

Set inside the Mickalene Thomas: Femmes Noires exhibition on Level 5 of the David & Vivian Campbell Centre for Contemporary Art, Coco Framboise invites her mother to re-braid her hair, this time weaving in textiles of personal and cultural importance from her own life and from her Black community. The performance will be accompanied by a soundtrack of community stories collected by Coco Framboise, and it concludes with a moving dance that celebrates Black beauty.

We sat down with Coco Framboise to learn more about the creative threads being woven into her performance, Afro-Dite: HairLoom.

AGO: What are some examples of the textiles you’ll be weaving into your hair during the performance?

Coco Framboise: There will be a receiving blanket that my mother used for both of her daughters. This represents family and origin. I’ll also use strands of braided black stockings from my burlesque practice. These represent my individuality and artistry. A friend also gave me the hem of a blue floral skirt her parents bought for her to wear the day she immigrated to Canada from Jamaica as a child.

AGO: Can you tell us more about the ‘braid quilt’ you’ll be making during your performance?

Coco Framboise: The process of braiding hair together is like weaving on a loom. These particular braids will include two strands of textiles — the heirlooms — and a strand of hair. The end result will look a bit like a linear quilt. The quilt metaphor also applies to the collaborative approach I took on this performance. I’ve been so lucky to work with a dream team of family (Hi, Mum!), hairstylists and others from my community of artists and allies, all contributing to this work.

AGO: How do you celebrate beauty in your performances?

Coco Framboise: I love having the opportunity to cast a variety of bodies in the burlesque shows I co-create. The more our audiences can witness different types of beauty, the more beauty they will be able to see and hopefully celebrate. 

AGO: What do you want people to know about Black hair?

Coco Framboise: Black hair comes in so many textures and it’s such an exciting medium to sculpt and style. I love changing the texture of my hair and playing with wigs and hair pieces. There’s a lot of opportunity for expression. That said, I do wish more people knew not to touch my hair without first having my
consent. No matter how great it looks, don’t touch. Ask first.

Included in General Admission, Afro-Dite: HairLoom takes place on January 18 inside the Mickalene Thomas: Femmes Noires exhibition on Level 5 of the David & Vivian Campbell Centre for Contemporary Art.

Are you an AGOinsider yet? If not, sign up to have stories like these delivered straight to your inbox every week.